36" + Rotor + tripod?

[mgandalf]

I have a 36" dish setup now with a rotor on a pretty solid mount located on my roof. All works very well, except that now my signal on some birds is being cut by a blocking tree. I'd like to relocate this setup to a ground location but I have a couple questions I hope all of you experts can answer:

Firstly, I've thought of using a pole sunk into the ground. However, remembering all the trouble I had getting the original mount perfectly level, I doubt I can do the same for one sunk in cement. Would averyone agree?

Second, I thought of using a tripod. After looking at the available tripods, they just don't seem to be sturdy enough for a 36" dish on a rotor. Am I wrong? If so, can I go with a 5 foot tripod or would I be better off with a 3 foot?

Third, can anyone come up with something better to use? I want something which can stand a fair bit of wind and that I can easily level for perfect focus. I have an old tree stump I could attach to to gain stability (as long as it's not too rotted). Maybe I can build a playform on this and use a standard mount? Though this would work I'm more concerned with the height of the dish and show.

I appreciate any suggestions.

- Mark.

[rainman]

I would recommend setting a pole in concrete. not that hard to get plumb. I have my 36" fortec set up this way and it is very stable.

[vj9999]

I would also recommend a pole in concrete. Tripod would work too but it could move easily. Some people have set a pole in a 5 gallon bucket filled with concrete. That might work too, but not sure how well with 36" motorized dish. Maybe somebody who tried it can chime in.

[elgemcdlf]

I also say concrete. I use a 10' piece of 1 1/4" black pipe sunk approx 3' in the ground and fill the pipe with concrete. Whole mount can be constructed for less than $20.00

[mgandalf]

Thanks for all your recomendations. I'll look into the pole method then. I have one final question. Assuming I do the poll and cement thing and the pole ends up about a degree or two off. Is there any easy way of correcting this? I assume the poll has to be dead on if I'm using a rotor.

- Mark.

[rainman]

no easy way to reset plumb after cement dries. recommend checking pole frequently with level while cement is drying.

[Reinhold]

If you use dry concrete and plumb it and temp it as you go,it is as good as wet concrete,but much easier to work that way.I had no problem plumbing mine,and the concrete will set up all by itself by extracting moisture from the ground.
Reinhold.

[vj9999]

Originally Posted by Reinhold

If you use dry concrete and plumb it and temp it as you go,it is as good as wet concrete,but much easier to work that way.I had no problem plumbing mine,and the concrete will set up all by itself by extracting moisture from the ground.
Reinhold.

I used dry concrete to and it worked great. I put the pole in, poured the dry concrete, leveled/plumbed the pole and poured water.

[rainman]

thats the way i did it vj and it work great.

[elgemcdlf]

I used wet concrete which was no problem as concrete is so thick I just set it to plumb and rechecked about 1000 times to the question of straightening a pole that is off a bit. I live rural so I would simply tie a tractor to the pole near the top of the pole and pull it into line with what I wanted. If the pole is sank in sufficient depth and concrete the pole should bend before unseating. Be careful though, do not want to try to reverse overcompensation

[mgandalf]

Wow! I didn't expect to get so many replies! Thanks to all!

Well, I suppose I'll give the poll treatment a try. I expect the frost line in north-central NY to be ~3 foot and I suppose I'll make the hole about a 12 - 16 inched in diameter. I'll use a 2" diameter poll and have it stick up above the ground 3-4 foot. Should I fill the poll with concrete as well?

- Mark.

[rainman]

yes I would fill the pole with cement also. it will give it more strength.and good luck on the install.

[elgemcdlf]

I would consider going much higher above ground. The way my setup works out places the dish approx 7' off the ground. This way you can walk under it without hitting it, dogs, children etc. Next reason for the additional height is mowing the grass. Speaking of mowing what about that nasty weedeater? Ok let's try this. Get yourself a piece of 1 1/2" PVC and a 45 degree elbow. Now assemble this so you have one leg approx 8 - 12" long and the other far enough out from the 45 to extend beyond your concrete.

What in the world are we doing? When you sink your pole also place this piece of constructed PVC right next to the pole with the top of the one leg approx 6" above the surface. Now when you run your coax take it through this PVC. It will protect the coax from mowing and the weedeater and the 45 will allow water drainage when it rains

You could get real fancy and extend roughly a foot or so beyond the concrete and drill a bunch of holes in this leg of PVC. This would help with water distribution into the ground when it does rain. You could also put a 180 on the top of the outlet which would keep rain out of the PVC in which case a 90 could be used instead of the 45. Or a whole host of other configs. A trap like setup looking like the trap on your kitchen sink with a hole drilled in the bottom for drainage. A T on the top with the vertical leg capped and the coax coming out the side. I think you get the idea

[mgandalf]

A 7' pole sounds nice but I have the neighbors to think about. Also, at 7' I'd be concerned with higher winds be able to move the dish easier than at 4' or 5'.

- Mark.

[rainman]

I got a 6 ft pole sunk 2 feet in the ground with 3 bags of quickcreek no problems.