Actuator

deaner · #1 (**permalink**) 07-01-2007, 03:21 PM

I have a vonweise actuator on a 10 foot diameter dish and the bottom cams are not moving and the dish is only operating on the top cam. The dish will not travel far and I felt the bottom motor cams should be operating the dish. All is older, superior dish and I need some guidance as to what to look for or if a new actuator is needed? thanks

rainman · #2 (**permalink**) 07-01-2007, 05:28 PM

sounds like it's time for a new acuator.

wejones · #3 (**permalink**) 07-01-2007, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deaner

I have a vonweise actuator on a 10 foot diameter dish and the bottom cams are not moving and the dish is only operating on the top cam. The dish will not travel far and I felt the bottom motor cams should be operating the dish. All is older, superior dish and I need some guidance as to what to look for or if a new actuator is needed? thanks

I've taken apart several different actuators, but never a Von Weise, so I'm no help here. However I'm curious what these "cams" are that you refer to. There isn't anything resembling a cam on any of the actuators I've taken apart, so I'm interested.

rainman · #4 (**permalink**) 07-01-2007, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wejones

I've taken apart several different actuators, but never a Von Weise, so I'm no help here. However I'm curious what these "cams" are that you refer to. There isn't anything resembling a cam on any of the actuators I've taken apart, so I'm interested.

the von weise i had Bill had to plastic cams on each end of the tube that the actator screw went through they were thread so it would push and pull the cylinder mine went bad and I was able to find new ones to be installed but that was about15 years ago.

bill190 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-02-2007, 12:57 AM

If buying a new actuator, I have been told that Vonweise is the best because the sensor has 4 magnets as opposed to only one magnet on many actuators.

So with a regular actuator and one "click" of movement, it would equal 4 "clicks" of movement of a Vonweise.

Or in other words, for those hard to get satellites, you can make very fine adjustments (left/right) when moving the dish to the satellite or 1/4 the movement of a regular actuator.

With a Vonweise, moving the dish all the way to the end of travel might give you a count of say 2000 clicks where a regular actuator would give you a count of say 500 clicks.

I have an old regular actuator on my big dish and have trouble with some satellites due to this problem. Sometimes I'll need to move it past the satellite, then back to get it right on. One of these days I'll get a Vonweise, but they are expensive!

deaner · #6 (**permalink**) 07-06-2007, 11:00 AM

I believe I have resolved the actuator problem. I now need to read up more on the aiming. I have read lots of the posts but I am new to fta so I do not have the confidence, I will keep trying. thanks to all

deaner · #7 (**permalink**) 07-10-2007, 04:39 PM

I have read everything possible on the setting of the dish and it still is coming out like -------.My zip39577 and as I understand this is
lat. 30.859N
long. 89.137W
Galaxy 28 (1A 8) (89.0W) would be the select target satellite. Is this all correct ? can I have some pointers to get over the hump? I have a protractor and a compass as well as Sat Buddy 2. If I have left anything out ask and I will correct. Thanks for all the help I have already received and it is very much appreciated. THANKS

deaner · #8 (**permalink**) 07-11-2007, 02:19 PM

My present feed cone is a chaparral serial cb 1317627, volts +15 to +22. With this cone there is a polarizer box that the wires need to come back to the General Instrument and then back to the actuator. My thoughts are to make the 450I the dish mover only and not hook up the polarizer. Going this direction, I would use the Mercury II for all other needs and would put in a different feed cone which is a C and KU band LNBF. It is a Geo Sat Pro CK1 which is the sandard LNBF. I can remove the entire Chaparral cone and put this one in and will have two seperate feeds. A C feed and a KU feed. Then I would have to put in a switch since they will be feeding off the same line. Do you see any problems in changing to this type of set up? The reason for changing is because I did not understand the wiring diagram so I don't have enough wires in. Being 75 years old, I really don't want to go back into the attic.
The 450I has an automatic C/KU change over which I will not be using with the new setup. The actuator is hardwired from the 450I. I would appreciate some feedback.