DiSEqC compatiblity

[tandemrudy]

I have a DiSEqC 2.0 that came with my Viewsat , from what I can tell it
just looks like a Splitter for different Lnb's on my Dish. How important
is it that I need to use the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3 that you recommend, and
what are the differences between the Two?

[lumpkin666]

I don't know much about the Diseqc commands, but you are correct, that is sort of a splitter. You can connect several LNB's to this and run a single RG6 cable to your receiver. Your receiver will allow you to send Diseqc commands to the switch in order to select which "port"/lnb you wish to view.

If you run a motor on your dish, you will need to connect the Diseqc AFTER the motor, as most of those switches will not pass the necessary information on to a motor (although there are a few switches that will, I doubt the freebe one you go will do that)

[wejones]

Originally Posted by tandemrudy

I have a DiSEqC 2.0 that came with my Viewsat , from what I can tell it
just looks like a Splitter for different Lnb's on my Dish. How important
is it that I need to use the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3 that you recommend, and
what are the differences between the Two?

In addition to what Lumpkin said, DiseqC commands are used both for switches and to send commands to motors. I think the basic motor commands are in the DiseqC 1.2 command set. In addition, there is an additional command that includes a GOTO-X command, which is called USALS by some and it has another DiseqC name too... perhaps this is the 1.3, I'm not sure.

Relative to the switches, as far as I know, there are only two kinds, there are the basic diseqC switches that can tell a switch to use ports 1,2,3,4, etc, and there is a second type switch with a simplified type of DiseqC command that is called a tone-burst. These switches generally have ports labeled "A" and "B". There are 2 DiseqC designations for switches, an DiseqC 1.0 and DiseqC 2.0 . I don't know which is which, but I have an older switch (which works better than my newer switches), which is a DiseqC 1.0, and it is labeled tone burst/DiseqC, and my newer switches are just labeled DiseqC 2.0 .

So far, from what I have seen, my DiseqC 1.0 switch will accept commands in either the tone burst mode or the DiseqC mode (ie A,B or 1,2), and the same is true for my DiseqC 2.0 switches. So I have yet to figure out any difference between what these switches are capable of doing, except that the newer switches don't seem to be made as well, and you have a better chance of the switch coming DOA or dying quickly.

However back to the switch vs splitter thing, a splitter connects both outputs to the input, and you divide the power between the two outputs, ie lower signal level. A switch connects one of 2 inputs to a single output. In principle, there is no need for insertion loss for a switch, however most have an insertion loss. My old DiseqC 1.0 switch had very little if any insertion loss. My newer DiseqC 2.0 switches do seem to have an insertion loss for some reason, meaning you're losing a bit of signal.

There are also 22khz and 12V switches, in addition to the DiseqC switches.

[brentb636]

As far as your receiver setup goes, you will want to use Diseqc 1.0 setting, if you have a choice. It's the simplest protocol, and sufficient to handle 4 lnbs attached to a 4x1 Diseqc switch.

[tandemrudy]

So if Iam understanding this right from what Ive read threw this forum, regarding the DiSEQC 1.2 or 1.3 etc. There are some Motors that have it built in , with the possiblity of replacing the Motor in the case of a $5 switch going out on you, so would make sense to me to have that Switch separate from Motor .
So now where do I get that switch like yours the DISEQC 1.0 since you mentioned it doesn't lose as much Signal as the newer ones? Which I assume you mean the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3.
And is the Switch in order of Reciever> DiSEqC Switch> then Motor?

Thankyou

Originally Posted by wejones

In addition to what Lumpkin said, DiseqC commands are used both for switches and to send commands to motors. I think the basic motor commands are in the DiseqC 1.2 command set. In addition, there is an additional command that includes a GOTO-X command, which is called USALS by some and it has another DiseqC name too... perhaps this is the 1.3, I'm not sure.

Relative to the switches, as far as I know, there are only two kinds, there are the basic diseqC switches that can tell a switch to use ports 1,2,3,4, etc, and there is a second type switch with a simplified type of DiseqC command that is called a tone-burst. These switches generally have ports labeled "A" and "B". There are 2 DiseqC designations for switches, an DiseqC 1.0 and DiseqC 2.0 . I don't know which is which, but I have an older switch (which works better than my newer switches), which is a DiseqC 1.0, and it is labeled tone burst/DiseqC, and my newer switches are just labeled DiseqC 2.0 .

So far, from what I have seen, my DiseqC 1.0 switch will accept commands in either the tone burst mode or the DiseqC mode (ie A,B or 1,2), and the same is true for my DiseqC 2.0 switches. So I have yet to figure out any difference between what these switches are capable of doing, except that the newer switches don't seem to be made as well, and you have a better chance of the switch coming DOA or dying quickly.

However back to the switch vs splitter thing, a splitter connects both outputs to the input, and you divide the power between the two outputs, ie lower signal level. A switch connects one of 2 inputs to a single output. In principle, there is no need for insertion loss for a switch, however most have an insertion loss. My old DiseqC 1.0 switch had very little if any insertion loss. My newer DiseqC 2.0 switches do seem to have an insertion loss for some reason, meaning you're losing a bit of signal.

There are also 22khz and 12V switches, in addition to the DiseqC switches.

[rainman]

Originally Posted by tandemrudy

So if Iam understanding this right from what Ive read threw this forum, regarding the DiSEQC 1.2 or 1.3 etc. There are some Motors that have it built in , with the possiblity of replacing the Motor in the case of a $5 switch going out on you, so would make sense to me to have that Switch separate from Motor .
So now where do I get that switch like yours the DISEQC 1.0 since you mentioned it doesn't lose as much Signal as the newer ones? Which I assume you mean the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3.
And is the Switch in order of Reciever> DiSEqC Switch> then Motor?

Thankyou

you can use the disqec switches that Sadouns sells I have 2 and they both work fine. the order would be receiver>motor>switch>LNB.
you are confusing 1.2 and 1.3 as switches these are not switches but a protocol in the receiver for moving the motor.

[wejones]

Originally Posted by tandemrudy

So if Iam understanding this right from what Ive read threw this forum, regarding the DiSEQC 1.2 or 1.3 etc. There are some Motors that have it built in , with the possiblity of replacing the Motor in the case of a $5 switch going out on you, so would make sense to me to have that Switch separate from Motor .
So now where do I get that switch like yours the DISEQC 1.0 since you mentioned it doesn't lose as much Signal as the newer ones? Which I assume you mean the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3.
And is the Switch in order of Reciever> DiSEqC Switch> then Motor?

Thankyou

In addition to Rainman's response, just so that you understand, the DiseqC1.2/1.3 are languages for the receiver to tell the motor where to move. There is really no choice involved here unless you buy an old unit, because most new equipment is capable of both 1.2 and 1.3 .

Re the switch. Most people don't even need a switch. People use switches so that they can add a 2nd LNBF, and have the receiver switch between the 2 lnbfs. These switches have nothing to do with the operation of the motor, other than it being important to place the switch after the motor. This one particular motor has a built in diseqC switch, apparently as an extra feature, and for some unknown reason, it assumes that you'll put the 2nd lnbf 6 degrees (I think) off to the side, which makes it annoying for people who want to use a combo linear/circular lnbf or if they want to put the 2nd lnbf at some angle other than that 6 deg, plus some people want more than 2 ports. I just think that most people don't need this internal switch, and if they do, it's easy enough to add a switch externally.

Re where to find the 1.0 switch, I don't know, I couldn't find one, but what I said really had nothing to do with 1.0, as even if you get a 2.0 switch, you're still using the same protocol, it's just that the newer switches don't seem to be made as well from what I've seen. All the switches new seem to do both 1.0, tone burst, and 2.0 so again there is no need to be concerned about it, other than being concerned that the newer switches don't seem to be as good as the old ones. However the new switches have gotten so cheap, that it doesn't matter. I think my first 2 port switch, which is still working cost in the $30-$40 range, but you can now find 2 port switches for about $5 to $10, and I think Saduon sells 4 port switches for about $16. So all I was saying is that if you have that specific application, ie 2 lnbfs separated by 6 degrees, then perhaps that motor with the internal switch is probably OK, but otherwise, it is a feature that you may not need, and may get in the way of other switching applications. So, I may have missed it, but what were you planning to do with the switch? Ie are you sure you need one?

[tandemrudy]

Hi Wejones,

I guess not. I see that Its really overkill, if I have a Motor.

thanks