GOL TV

djsassan · #1 (**permalink**) 09-07-2005, 12:39 AM

Any way of getting it, or is it for Dish Network customers only?

Thanks

http://www.lyngsat.com/echo8.html

wejones · #2 (**permalink**) 09-07-2005, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djsassan

Any way of getting it, or is it for Dish Network customers only?

Thanks

http://www.lyngsat.com/echo8.html

If it shows up in Lyngsat as being digital clear like it does in the above url, you should be able to receive it with any FTA receiver connected to a circular lnbf. You might be able to receive it with a regular linear lnb, but I wouldn't count on that. Of course what is free digital today may be scrambled tomorrow, so you can never count on any signal being available.

SLK · #3 (**permalink**) 05-23-2006, 11:38 PM

FTA reciver echosat 110 in spanish end inglish free foe now.

Westcoaster · #4 (**permalink**) 05-24-2006, 01:45 AM

I'm getting it using an old direct tv dish and lnb connected to my Pansat 300A FTA receiver - Spanish and Enlgish on Echo 8 at 110.0W

dogfly001 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-27-2006, 03:40 AM

Hi Westcoaster,

I live in the dirtfields of the 909.

I can't get GolTV, can you help?

I have a Mercury II, Dish 500 w/Dish Pro LNB, did a power scan of Echo 6/8 and all the FTA I get is: Nasa, Angel and DN Order Channel.

What am I doing wrong? HELP!!!! Must get soccer!

You know what...I just checked my Dish Net Recvr. and on GolTV channel, I also get a satellite error; but I get the other channels. Is my dish alignment a little off?

rainman · #6 (**permalink**) 07-27-2006, 07:12 AM

you are pulling the wrong sat for gol tv nasa is on 119 degrees gol is on 110 degrees make sure you are feeding off of the right lnb if it is a dual sat lnb.

dogfly001 · #7 (**permalink**) 07-28-2006, 03:48 PM

Rainman, do you mean physically have the RG6 cable connected to the right dishpro terminal?

I will go up the roof this weekend and try...

rainman · #8 (**permalink**) 07-28-2006, 04:28 PM

not sure if you got any switches to switch lnbs on the dish or not so hook it staight to the lnb for the 110 sat.

Iceberg · #9 (**permalink**) 07-30-2006, 08:03 PM

change your diseqc to port 2 to get 110

you may not have a diseqc switch but the internal switch takes 119 as "1" and 110 as "2"

Reinhold · #10 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 10:31 AM

When I had DN they gave me a DN multyswitch for more then one LNB and more then one TV. the LNB's where hooked up separately.
I have a question about disq c switches though.I have used 5 differant ones and they seem to kick out quite often on the liniar sats.Does anybody else have a problem like that?
Reinhold.

brentb636 · #11 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 10:35 AM

"I have used 5 differant ones and they seem to kick out quite often on the liniar sats.Does anybody else have a problem like that?"

Not sure what you mean, but make sure the switch is between the motor and LNB ( if you have a motor ) . No sense having the extra motor current burn up the switch.

elgemcdlf · #12 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reinhold

When I had DN they gave me a DN multyswitch for more then one LNB and more then one TV. the LNB's where hooked up separately.
I have a question about disq c switches though.I have used 5 differant ones and they seem to kick out quite often on the liniar sats.Does anybody else have a problem like that?
Reinhold.

Are you motorized? If so the switch needs to be between the motor and lnbf not motor and receiver.

If not you have to be fully powered down to make any changes to the switch as far as connections go. If any power to switch when disconnecting or reconnecting coax the switch will either burn out or be damaged and prone to failure in the near future.

If mounted between the motor and lnbf is it a shielded unit to repel water?

Reinhold · #13 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 10:51 AM

I powered down completely wwhen I installed the switches.They are right behind the LNBF When I first install they are good for a while.Then after I shut down and come back on I seem to get trouble.I have tried more then one brand and it seems to be the same.
Reinhold.

wejones · #14 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elgemcdlf

...
If not you have to be fully powered down to make any changes to the switch as far as connections go. If any power to switch when disconnecting or reconnecting coax the switch will either burn out or be damaged and prone to failure in the near future.
...

I wonder if there is any difference between the Diseq 1.0 and 2.0 switches? I forget, but I think the former is called something like mini-diseqc or something like that. My 1.0 tone burst switch has ports labeled "A" and "B", while the 2.0 switch has 1,2,3,4 .
Reason I'm curious is that I'm using a Pansat 1.0 2 port switch (bought from Sadoun), that I've had going for something like 4 years with no problems, and I have NEVER powered down my receiver while making connections to it, and I have switched coaxes 50 to 100 times while powered up, with no problems.
A while back I replaced this switch with a "Sadoun" 2.0 switch. Even before I started, one of the ports "3" was dead, and a couple months later, port "4" died, then ports "1" and "2" died. None of these failures were related to any coax change.
I ended up putting the 1.0 switch back in, and it's still going strong. I'm afraid to order another 4 port switch, because I don't trust the quality.

rainman · #15 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 11:19 AM

hey reinhold i got my disqec set between the lnbf and motor have not had any problems.its one of sadoun's 4 way switch with the weather cover.are you using dielectric grease on the connectors if not try this it will help keep the water out.other than that don't know why you would be having a problem.also use terminators on the unused ports.

elgemcdlf · #16 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wejones

I wonder if there is any difference between the Diseq 1.0 and 2.0 switches? I forget, but I think the former is called something like mini-diseqc or something like that. My 1.0 tone burst switch has ports labeled "A" and "B", while the 2.0 switch has 1,2,3,4 .
Reason I'm curious is that I'm using a Pansat 1.0 2 port switch (bought from Sadoun), that I've had going for something like 4 years with no problems, and I have NEVER powered down my receiver while making connections to it, and I have switched coaxes 50 to 100 times while powered up, with no problems.
A while back I replaced this switch with a "Sadoun" 2.0 switch. Even before I started, one of the ports "3" was dead, and a couple months later, port "4" died, then ports "1" and "2" died. None of these failures were related to any coax change.
I ended up putting the 1.0 switch back in, and it's still going strong. I'm afraid to order another 4 port switch, because I don't trust the quality.

Interesting you should bring this up. I have had 2 switches fail that were labeled 1234 and have one that is labeled ABCD and it keeps going with no problems at all. It currently sits outside in the weather and still shows no signs of a problem. I had never put much thought into it in the past.

Reinhold · #17 (**permalink**) 07-31-2006, 06:11 PM

The strange part is that it is not completely dead,it cuts in and out at the most inopertune times.With the QPH031 it only happened on the liniar side and with the 621-2 only on the Ku side.I am back on the universal till it cools of a bit.Maybe I'll try a cheap two way switch.
By the way Rainman;three of them were from sadoun with the weather cover,the other was a cheapo but also under a weather cover.
Thanks all for your replies.
Reinhold.