Quote:
Originally Posted by tandemrudy
So if Iam understanding this right from what Ive read threw this forum, regarding the DiSEQC 1.2 or 1.3 etc. There are some Motors that have it built in , with the possiblity of replacing the Motor in the case of a $5 switch going out on you, so would make sense to me to have that Switch separate from Motor .
So now where do I get that switch like yours the DISEQC 1.0 since you mentioned it doesn't lose as much Signal as the newer ones? Which I assume you mean the DiSEqC 1.2 or 1.3.
And is the Switch in order of Reciever> DiSEqC Switch> then Motor?
Thankyou |
In addition to Rainman's response, just so that you understand, the DiseqC1.2/1.3 are languages for the receiver to tell the motor where to move. There is really no choice involved here unless you buy an old unit, because most new equipment is capable of both 1.2 and 1.3 .
Re the switch. Most people don't even need a switch. People use switches so that they can add a 2nd LNBF, and have the receiver switch between the 2 lnbfs. These switches have nothing to do with the operation of the motor, other than it being important to place the switch after the motor. This one particular motor has a built in diseqC switch, apparently as an extra feature, and for some unknown reason, it assumes that you'll put the 2nd lnbf 6 degrees (I think) off to the side, which makes it annoying for people who want to use a combo linear/circular lnbf or if they want to put the 2nd lnbf at some angle other than that 6 deg, plus some people want more than 2 ports. I just think that most people don't need this internal switch, and if they do, it's easy enough to add a switch externally.
Re where to find the 1.0 switch, I don't know, I couldn't find one, but what I said really had nothing to do with 1.0, as even if you get a 2.0 switch, you're still using the same protocol, it's just that the newer switches don't seem to be made as well from what I've seen. All the switches new seem to do both 1.0, tone burst, and 2.0 so again there is no need to be concerned about it, other than being concerned that the newer switches don't seem to be as good as the old ones. However the new switches have gotten so cheap, that it doesn't matter. I think my first 2 port switch, which is still working cost in the $30-$40 range, but you can now find 2 port switches for about $5 to $10, and I think Saduon sells 4 port switches for about $16. So all I was saying is that if you have that specific application, ie 2 lnbfs separated by 6 degrees, then perhaps that motor with the internal switch is probably OK, but otherwise, it is a feature that you may not need, and may get in the way of other switching applications. So, I may have missed it, but what were you planning to do with the switch? Ie are you sure you need one?